Kent and Gail flew up from Austin and joined us aboard Amazing Grace for a cruise around Cape Cod Bay, with stops in Plymouth and Provincetown.
There was plenty of walking, a bike ride through the dunes, and some terrific meals.
Friday morning was picture perfect in Onset as we headed up the canal.
Kent helped me wash down the boat before we headed to town for lunch and to introduce our friends to Plymouth.
Lunch at the Artisan Pig
I think the Artisan Pig is one of the best restaurants in Plymouth.
The name reflects the sausage they make themselves, but it doesn’t tell the whole story.
They also do an excellent job with salads, giving you some healthier choices alongside the pizzas and all that pork.
Kent and I both enjoyed a Fiddlehead. Gail had the house salad, Kent ordered the Caesar, and Mrs. Horne had the Cobb.
A mix of greens, cucumber, roasted tomatoes, and grilled red onion, served with a choice of dressing.
Romaine with Parmesan and sourdough croutons, accompanied by grilled lemon and white anchovy.
Greens topped with grilled chicken, ham, chopped egg, corn, roasted tomatoes, and Gorgonzola, with a choice of dressing.
Mrs. Horne and I shared the 10-inch sausage-and-ricotta pizza, asking for white sauce instead of red. Kent and Gail shared a larger pizza with red sauce.
House sourdough crust with sweet Italian sausage, peppers, caramelized onions, and basil-pesto ricotta.
This is not a pizza I would normally order, but the basil pesto ricotta is a killer combination!
Plymouth: A Walk Through History
After lunch at the Artisan Pig, we went for a walk. Gail is an avid walker, and she pretty much wore me out that day. Mrs. Horne, on the other hand, kept right up with her.
Our first stop was Pilgrim Hall Museum. I had never been inside before, and it turned out to be a fantastic museum.
What impressed me most was the depth of the story and the way it was presented. The videos featured actors portraying Pilgrims and Native Americans, telling stories using words written at the time.
Every time I learn more about the Pilgrims’ story, I’m blown away by the hardship they endured in pursuit of freedom.
I was reminded again by this poster that illustrates how many died in the first winter.
After the museum, Gail and Mrs. Horne were ready for more exploring. Next up was Burial Hill, with its old gravestones and layers of Plymouth history.
William Bradford, the longtime governor of Plymouth Colony, is buried here. According to the town, the last burial on the hill took place in 1957.
Nearby Cole’s Hill has another piece of the Pilgrim story. Recovered remains were gathered into a sarcophagus there in 1921.
I am not usually a big fan of cemeteries. To me, the remains are there, but the soul has moved on.
Still, I thoroughly enjoyed the views from the top of Burial Hill. Even if cemeteries aren’t your thing, I would recommend the climb for the views alone.
We hit a few more historical sites on the way back to the boat.
Six Miles and Dinner at East Bay Grille
Eventually we returned to Amazing Grace and enjoyed some nice warm weather up on the sky deck. Then it was time to walk to East Bay Grille. By this point, I think we had logged close to six miles.
Of course, along the way I had to stop and look at Plymouth Rock—my perennial nominee for the most disappointing landmark in America.
It was also fascinating to see how far the tide rises and falls in Plymouth.
Dinner was very good, starting with the incredible Parker House–style rolls and their sweet seasoned butter.
Before ordering, we asked how the lobster was prepared. Our server told us that all the meat had been removed and that we wouldn’t even need crackers.
Whole lobster with crumb stuffing in the body; the tails and claws were served in their shells.
When the lobsters arrived, however, the tails and claws were still intact. The bodies were stuffed with crumbs, and crackers were very much required.
It was a great lobster at a very good price, but the preparation was disappointing.
Cod prepared with butter, white wine, and a seasoned crumb topping, served with vegetables and a choice of potato or rice.
We shared the sweet potato fries, and they were very good.
A side order of sweet potato fries.
A generous side of fingerling potatoes.
The potatoes were good, though a little underseasoned, and the portion was huge.
Lamb chops served with a chickpea salad accompaniment.
The lamb chops were very good. The chickpea salad alongside them was another matter. I tasted it, but the combination seemed odd to me, and it isn’t something I would order again.
Saturday: A Smooth Run to Provincetown
We woke Saturday to an absolutely spectacular morning and made a quick run to Provincetown on very smooth seas.
We arrived around 11 and tied up on the outer dock at Provincetown Marina, which I think is one of the best marinas anywhere: big, solid concrete floating docks, large slips, and a very competent staff.
We did have a problem with power at the pedestal, something we have encountered there before. Once we brought it to the marina manager’s attention, they came out and fixed it. We had no more trouble after that.
The original plan had been to ride the National Seashore bike trails on Sunday. But Sunday’s forecast had gone downhill, so we decided to pack everything into Saturday. We unloaded the bikes, washed the boat, and headed downtown for lunch at Local 186.
Lunch on the Porch at Local 186
Local 186 is one of my favorite lunch spots in Provincetown, particularly when we are heading out on the bikes. It is about halfway to the entrance to the National Seashore bike trails.
We have always eaten on the upper porch, which feels like sitting at somebody’s home. You have a nice view of the water and can see Commercial Street without sitting right on it.
The food is consistently excellent, especially the French fries.
Baby beets and whipped goat cheese with bitter greens, pistachios, and a blood-orange vinaigrette.
Mrs. Horne loved her beet salad.
A beef burger topped with Grafton cheddar and bacon, accompanied by French fries.
This was Kent’s choice.
Turkey burger with feta tzatziki and a side salad.
I like ordering things I haven’t seen on other menus, and the Fun Guy definitely qualified.
Mixed mushrooms and smoked Gruyère on ciabatta, with arugula and lemon aioli; served with fries.
It was an excellent flavor bomb, although I thought the proportions were a little off—too much mushroom, a little too much bread, and perhaps not enough cheese.
One last detail I love: they bring the bill tucked inside an old hardcover book. Ours arrived in a Nancy Drew mystery.
Biking Through the Dunes
After lunch we got back on the bikes and continued along Commercial Street.
At the end, we turned left instead of our usual right, taking us past the Red Inn and down to that long breakwater stretching out into Provincetown Bay.
I really wanted Kent and Gail to experience the bike trail. They enjoy riding with us whenever they visit, but they had never seen Provincetown or this trail.
To me, it is one of the most impressive bike trails in New England. Once you are on it, you are away from the street, winding through the dunes as ocean views open up along the way.
When we reached the area by the Coast Guard building, we parked the bikes and walked down to the beach.
It is an extraordinary stretch of beach, with an ocean view that seems to go on forever. Kent pointed out toward the horizon and asked, “What’s that?” I told him, “The next thing out there is probably Spain.”
There is one thing I would mention: it is a long walk down from the parking area and an even longer walk back up. I could see coming back by Uber, with chairs, a packed lunch, and an umbrella, and making a day of it.
We saw RVs farther along the beach, so there is vehicle access in designated areas. It does require a National Seashore oversand permit, an eligible vehicle, and the required equipment; renting a Jeep alone doesn’t provide access.
Check the National Park Service’s oversand information before planning that kind of visit.
We spent the rest of the afternoon biking back to the boat.
An Evening at the Red Inn
After resting aboard, we headed to the Red Inn for dinner. It was a little too far to walk—even for Gail—so we took an Uber, which generally works quite well for us in Provincetown.
The Red Inn is one of Provincetown’s most iconic places. The outdoor seating areas are wonderful, and the interior has the feel of an old-school resort.
The warm bread service with softened butter is one of my favorites.
A rich lobster dip served in a bread bowl, with substantial pieces of lobster.
Mrs. Horne and I shared this. It was rich—very rich—and excellent. I took a picture of a piece of lobster coming out of the bowl just to show how generous the lobster pieces were.
Roasted cod accompanied by potatoes and vegetables.
Mrs. Horne and I split the seafood pasta. It was great, and at $34, it was an incredible deal.
Fettuccine with shrimp, crawfish, and mushrooms in a light tomato-cream sauce flavored with sherry.
I put the underwater lights on before we left and much to our delight, there were several squid swimming behind Amazing Grace.
Sunday: Sunrise, Rain, and Lunch at the Lobster Pot
Sunday began with a beautiful sunrise before the rain came in. Our decision to fit the bike ride into Saturday had worked out well.
Around 10:00 a.m., the skies opened up…
Despite all their tough talk, the crew was reluctant to leave the boat amid the wind and the rain.
I took my golf umbrella and stood on the dock to demonstrate it wasn’t that bad.
Eventually we left for lunch…
Lunch took us to the Lobster Pot. It’s been a Provincetown institution since I was a kid.
It offers solid seafood with a funky oceanside vibe.
Romaine hearts with house Caesar dressing, Parmesan, and croutons. Shrimp can be added grilled or blackened.
The restaurant’s clam chowder served inside a bread bowl.
Clams served hot in a pot with melted butter and lemon.
Six littleneck clams broiled on the half shell with bacon and a crumb topping.
By now Commercial Street had become a river.
It was impossible to leave without completely soaking our shoes!
Football and an Old Favorite
After lunch, Kent and I returned to the boat to watch the first weekend of NFL football and pray that our fantasy team did well. It did not.
The girls went shopping and returned around four. By five, the rain had stopped and the sun was beginning to come out.
On the way to lunch, we had noticed that Front Street had moved. It has been one of my favorite restaurants since the ’70s, so I canceled our reservation at Ross’s Grill and booked Front Street instead.
The new location is at the former Surf Club near the base of MacMillan Pier.
Renovations at the old building prompted the move, as reported by the Provincetown Independent. What struck me was how different it felt from the old restaurant’s dark lair, with plenty of light coming through the windows.
Kent and I ordered an Adelsheim Pinot Noir, which was very good.
Arugula dressed with lemon and feta, finished with orange, dried cranberries, roasted salted almonds, and more feta.
Warm spinach with Dijon dressing, smoked pancetta, caramelized onion, and grilled portobello mushroom.
I ordered the large bread service so everyone could have some. It was such a generous portion that we didn’t finish it.
A large bread order for the table.
Penne served with Front Street’s Neapolitan-style beef meat sauce.
Ribbon pasta in a garlic and Romano cream sauce with mushrooms, pancetta, and peas.
Potato dumplings coated in cream and white-truffle butter, finished with Pecorino Romano.
Oven-baked meatballs with red sauce and melted cheese.
We were fortunate to have Holly, one of the best servers, who told us she had been with Front Street for 28 years.
Our conversation about the restaurant’s future was sobering. As Holly explained it, the move involved a one-year lease, and potential rent increases left the future uncertain. She raised the possibility that this could be the last season.
If it were to close, it would be a shame. I remember going to Front Street in the ’70s with my late brother Charles and sampling food with Howard Gruber in the kitchen.
Such a special place.
Monday: A Ferry Farewell and One More Day
Kent and Gail were flying home from Logan at four, and Monday’s forecast didn’t look great.
They booked themselves on the high-speed ferry from Provincetown to Boston.
Mrs. Horne and I were leaning toward staying another night, but decided to make that call after Kent and Gail were on their way. We even set alarms so we could wave as the ferry passed the boat.
Shortly afterward, we decided to stay. It was a beautiful day, but windy on Cape Cod. The northeast wind made it cool aboard, yet as soon as we walked downtown, it felt like a beautiful summer day.
We walked almost all the way to where Commercial Street splits, did some shopping, and bought gifts for the grandkids.
Of course, Mrs. Horne had to check out a home-goods shop, looking for things she didn’t know we needed.
Lunch at the Squealing Pig
We ended up at the Squealing Pig for lunch and sat at the bar. I enjoyed a Fiddlehead, and we split some oysters and a burger.
Six oysters on the half shell, served with lemon, cocktail sauce, and horseradish.
A burger topped with blue cheese and sliced avocado, with French fries.
Movies Aboard and a Terrific Pizza
After lunch we made our way back to Amazing Grace, closed all the blackout shades, and settled in for a movie afternoon. We were enjoying ourselves so much that we decided to stay aboard for dinner too.
I found Twisted Pizza, just at the end of the pier on Commercial Street, and ordered our special combination on their website: white sauce, pepperoni, sausage, and onions.
Then I walked over in the setting sun to pick it up.
White sauce with pepperoni, sausage, and onions
I have to say, this may well have been the best pizza I’ve ever had. Twisted calls its round pizza New York style; it lists a separate square Sicilian pizza. Whatever label you put on it, ours was thick and moist with a crisp bottom. It was a terrific dinner aboard.
After dinner we watched one more movie. Tuesday morning, we got up and headed back to Onset. The seas were still a tad rough, but nothing we couldn’t handle.
Next Up: October Cruising